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Save Time with These DIY Oil Change Basics

By brwood(view all posts by brwood)
at 9:57AM Tuesday September 20, 2011
under Loose Change

I will level with you, you really aren't savings much money by changing the oil in your car yourself. With oil changes starting at around $20 at most places, you will have a hard time spending less on just the oil and filter if you are doing it yourself. Yet many of us still do it that way.

The true advantage I see in doing it myself is the time I save. Many places advertise 30 minute oil changes, but have you ever gotten in and out of a quick lube place in less than an hour? Unless the place is literally across the street from your home, or office, or Laundromat you're going to be sitting wasting an hour playing block breaker on your smart phone and looking at LOLcats. By doing it yourself, the oil change is going to take you just about exactly as long as it takes five quarts of oil to drain from your car. You can do it in 30 minutes easy.

Here's what you will need: A dedicated catch basin or tank for the oil (at least 6 quarts), a socket or box wrench the correct size for your drain bolt, some sort of oil filter wrench and, unless you drive a tall SUV, a jack and jack stands.

Step 1: Research - look up in your manual or online what viscosity of oil to use, and how much. While you are at it, it doesn't hurt to find the part number for the oil filter and any other parts you are replacing at the same time.

Step 2: Supplies - Pick up the oil and filter. If it's your first time, pick up any tools you need too. It's easier to find a filter wrench that fits then you are holding a clean filter in a well-lit store then when you are under your car.

Step 3: Jack it up - (Put the parking brake on) Putting the jack in the wrong place can cause serious damage. Rear wheel drive cars usually have a frame crossmember under the motor that works great. Front wheel drive cars don't, but there's usually a strong point near a motor mount that works.

Some cars it seems like it would be easier to get two circus-strong men to lift--the early VW Rabbit springs to mind.


Step 4: Set it down - The jack stands will hold the car while you work on it. Put them at the car's jacking points just behind the front wheels (usually a triangle of circular indentation). Or any other structural point, like where the control arm pivots in the frame.

Step 5: Shake it, shove it - I like to get out from under the car and give it a few bumps or shoves. Better to knock it off the jack and hurt the car than drop it on my head.

Step 6: Drain it - If you just drove to the store, the oil will be quite hot. Go inside and drink a cool beverage and wait a few minutes. When the oil pan is cool enough to put your hand on, it's time to do this. Position the catch pan under the oil drain plug and loosen the plug. Once it's loose enough to turn with your fingers, do it. By using your fingers you keep it from suddenly falling out and oil spraying everywhere. You probably should have put down some newspapers.

Step 7: Plug it - When the oil slows down to a trickle (It usually takes 10 to 15 minutes), wipe the drain plug clean and screw it back in. Make sure it's tight enough, but don't over tighten it.

Step 8: Remove filter - Getting the filter off is the hardest part of the oil change. Even with the proper tools, the filter is typically somewhere only an octopus could reach it. Having bones is a hassle sometimes! To top it off some motors place the filter horizontally so there is no way to not get oil all over. The filter is full of hot oil--try not to spill it.

Step 9: Fill the new filter with oil from one of the new bottles. It usually holds about 8 oz. It will take time to soak in. So fill it, wait, fill it, wait, fill it, wait... Rub oil around the rubber gasket on the top of the filter.

Step 10: Screw the new filter on by hand. The official instruction is turn it until the gasket seats then 1/2 to 3/4 turns further. There's no need for that. Just turn it with your hands until it is as tight as you can make it. Grab it with a rag and try to turn it more. That's tight enough. If you have a car where it's hard to reach the filter, you may need to use the wrench to tighten it. The last thing you want is the filter coming loose.

Step 11: Fill it up - This is the most important part. Pour all the new oil in the filler at the top of the motor. Start the car, and observe the oil pressure gauge, or idiot light. It will take just a second or two longer for it to read normal. Let the motor run for a minute, and shut it off.

Step 12: Take it down - Do the opposite of what you did to get it in the air. Jack it up, remove the jack stands, and lower it.

Step 13: Check the oil - Pull the dipstick out, wipe it clean and put it back. Pull it out again and check the level. Add oil if needed.


Step 14: Take it back - Most places that sell motor oil will take back the old oil and filter too.  The oil is re-refined and made into new oil.  Valvoline has been pushing their new line of Nexgen oils, and they are every bit as good if not better then the virgin stock oil.


Any questions?

Next week I'll give you the list of other things that you ought to do periodically every time you change the oil.